Alipore has long stood as a quiet symbol of power, privilege, and pedigree. A neighbourhood where leafy avenues and sprawling bungalows coexist with a vibrant urban history, Alipore's story is one of remarkable continuity even as the rest of the city changes around it.
From the stately colonial-era mansions that house Kolkata's industrial dynasties - the Birlas, Goenkas, Bangurs, Mittals - to the official residences of top bureaucrats and military brass, Alipore remains the city's most coveted address. "It was always a very prestigious destination," says veteran industrialist SK Birla, who has called Alipore home for 75 years. "Though many bungalows have given way to multistoried buildings, I still believe it is the best place to live in Kolkata."
A colonial past etched in lanes
Alipore's roots are deeply entwined with colonial Calcutta. "Vanity Fair" author William Make-peace Thackeray was born here and Duel Lane still whispers the tale of Warren Hastings' infamous duel with Sir Philip Francis in 1780. Once a secluded hamlet bordered by the
ed hamlet bordered by the Adi Ganga (Tolly's Nullah), Alipore became a desirable residential enclave for British officials seeking escape from the commercial bustle of Dalhousie Square.
With Independence came a new chapter. The Marwaris, rising as the new industrial elite, made Alipore their home, bringing fresh wealth while preserving its exclusive character. Over time, many of Kolkata's most prominent entrepreneurs, senior bureaucrats, and diplomats would also find their address here.
For S Kaul, managing director of Nicco Engineering Services and Honorary Consul General of South Korea, Alipore is not just a residence but part of family history "My children are the fourth generation in our family to be in Alipore, so we're all firmly tied to this peaceful corner of the world," he says. "In my childhood, on quiet days, I could hear the tigers from the zoo roar. These days, the din of traffic makes that impossible. But I still love the greenery and the quiet roads that remain in some pockets of Alipore. Institutions like the Horticultural Gardens, Alipore Zoo, and some remaining houses, such as the Burdwan Palace, ensure that Alipore is relatively green."
Green Soul of Alipore
Indeed, amidst Kolkata's unrelenting urban expansion, Alipore retains a rare green heart. The Agri-Horticultural Society of India Garden - a sprawling 24-acre oasis - remains the epicenter of daily life for many residents. "Horticulture Garden is like a lifeline for us." says industrialist MK Jalan, who has "We gather every morning for walks and adda. This is where the para culture of Alipore thrives."
Alipore's enduring greenery also owes much to its public institutions. The National Library, housed in the stately Belvedere House - once the Governor General's residence - continues to be an intellectual landmark. Soon, it will add a new chapter to its legacy with the upcoming Museum of Words, a tribute to the world of literature and ideas.
Across from it stands another testimony to Alipore's layered history - the Alipore Jail Museum. Once, a colonial prison for political dissidents, it now honors India's freedom fighters and martyrs.
Balancing heritage and change
For Sanjay Agarwal, co-founder of Century Ply. Alipore's charm lies in its ability to balance old-world charm with modern needs. "While some
bungalows have made way for high-rises, many still stand tall, preserving the area's colonial-era architecture and greenery," he says. "Despite the
city's rapid urbanization, Alipore continues to be Kolkata's "lung."
Though real estate pressures inevitably creep in, most residents prefer preservation over rapid vertical growth. Agarwal believes strong regulations - rather than outright bans - are the key: "Construction should follow norms to ensure enough open space and avoid public road encroachment. That balance is essential."
The para spirit lives on
Despite its exclusivity Alipore hasn't entirely shed Kolkata's beloved para culture. Residents continue to gather in the Horticultural Gardens, share morning walks, and celebrate festivals with quiet dignity "During the lockdown, we had informal gatherings near the State Bank crossing at
Burdwan Road - it felt like a local fair, people reconnecting from a distance," Agarwal recalls. "Moments like those reflect the true spirit of Alipore - a community that comes together in times of need.
Preserving tranquillity in changing city
As Kolkata races toward the future, Alipore stands as one of its few remaining oases - where tree-lined avenues, colonial mansions, and rich community life coexist. For many like Kaul, its greatest charm lies in its simplicity. "Looking at the tree tops over my morning tea - that's what I wouldn't want to change."
In the end, Alipore's real wealth may not lie in its grandeur but in its ability to hold onto the serenity, heritage, and human connections that define its soul.
