Shyambazar in north Kolkata stands as a crucial cultural intersection where heritage remains ever present. It exists in the tea stalls, along the ghats, and within the deteriorating mansions, while contemporary cafes and delivery services operate through these same streets. At the riverside ghats, both the Hooghly and temporal progression appear suspended. The statue of Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose on horseback at Shyambazar five-point crossing serves as a significant marker, reflecting the area's connection to India's Independence struggle.
What's in a name?
According to author Rangalal Bandyopadhyay's writings, "...the two villages named Shyambazar and Shyampukur are very ancient. The existence of the
village named Shynmbazar is found in government documents from 1749..." Whilst its antiquity is recorded, the name's origin remain unclear, with various explanations regarding the identity of "Shyam'.
The most plausible historical account is documented in Evan Cotton's 'Calcutta Old and New'. It records that before the Battle of Plassey in the mid-18th
century, numerous Bengali merchants established commercial ventures in Kolkata. One such trader, Shobharam Basak, was a devotee of Shyam Rai or Shyamchand. He dedicated the area as Shyambazar to his deity and constructed a pond for worship, now called Shyampukur, Shobharam owned the Shyambazar market, which developed into a prominent trading centre. The Shyampukur police station remains the longest-serving law enforcement facility in the area.
Historical context
The East India Co, alarmed by potential Maratha Invasions, requested Alivardi Khan, Bengal's Nawab, to construct a defensive trench around Calcutta. The 7-kilometre excavation commenced in 1742 from Bagbazar (Perrin's Point), funded entirely through Indian taxation. The project was abandoned after six months, with Upjohn's indicating the Maratha Ditch's location.
Following their victory at Plassey the British East India Co expanded their colonial presence. In 1766, they constructed six roads linking Dihi Kolkata
with outlying areas, including Shyambazar Road. Horse-drawn trams arrived in Shyambazar in 1882, followed by electric trams in 1889. Central Avenue's extension to Shyambazar in 1911 was renamed Bhupen Bose Avenue, honouring the distinguished Bengali lawyer, educator and politician Bhupendra Nath Bose.
The area has been the residence to numerous distinguished individuals- Nilmoni Mitra, Bengal's first qualified engineer, created notable structures like
Sadharon Brahma Samaj and Metropolitan Institute. The locality also produced Upendranath Brahmachari, who discovered urea stibamine to treat "kala azar'.
The residence of Nagendranath Basu, who compiled the first encyclopaedias in Bengali and Hindi ('Bangla Biswakosh' and 'Hindi Vishwakosh"), is
situated in Shyambazar. The area is linked with artistic luminaries like Girish Chandra Ghosh, Amritalal Basu, Binodini Dasi, and others.
The locality houses some of Kolkata's oldest educational establishments. Shyambazar AV School was founded in 1855, whilst Town School Calcuttn began in 1891. Notable institutions include Maharaja Manindra Chandra College, Seth Anandaram Jaipuria College, and R G Kar Medical College, established in 1806.
Football's birth place
"For the first time in the history of Indian Football, a core Bengali team, Mohun Bagan, won IFA Shield by defeating a competent White team...," Reuter, London wrote. In 1911, Mohun Bagan's barefooted players defeated the East Yorkshire Regiment, marking the first sporting triumph against imperial forces. These players are commemorated on Mohun Bagan Row, where the club originated in 1889.
The club's foundation meeting occurred on Aug 15, 1889, at 14, Balaram Ghosh Street. Prominent families supported its establishment, with its first grounds at Mohun Bagan Villa. In 1890, it became 'Mohun Bagan Athletic Club'.
Cultural evolution
Shvambazar emerged as a prominent theatre district under the patronage of Calcutta's wealthy elite. The first Bengali production, 'Bidyasundar', was staged in Nabin Chandra Basu's mansion in 1835. Theatre groups such as Baghbazar Amateur Theatre Group and Shyambazar Natya Samaj were instrumental in establishing public, commercial theatre during the mid-19th century.
The Star Theatre was established in 1883 at 68, Beadon Street through the efforts of Girish Chandra Ghosh, Binodini, Amritalal Basu and others. In 1888, it relocated to 75/3 Cornwallis Street. The theatre, now a grade-one heritage structure, was renamed Binodini by CM Mamata Banerjee last
Dec, highlighting its historical significance.
The neighbourhood's theatrical landscape has transformed significantly. Former theatres like Bijan Theatre, Rangana, Biswarupa, Rangmahal, and Sarkarina have been replaced by residential complexes or commercial establishments. Single-screen cinemas like Mitra, Rupbani, Shree and others, which dotted the once-vibrant stretch from Shyambazar to Hatibagan, have largely disappeared.
Shyambazar's architectural heritage includes distinctive features such as airy verandahs, iron latticework, louvred windows, and French doors. The Kamala Baati, with its neo-Gothic clock tower, exemplifies this heritage. However, as noted by advocate Debabarata Mukhopadhyny, a resident since 1969, "The old houses are slowly being replaced with modern flats to accommodate more people. The Sen bari, the third official office of Mohun
Bagan Athletic Club, is being demolished. The neighbourhood is changing and becoming more cosmopolitan."
Religion and revolution
55, Shyampukur Street holds historical significance as Ramakrishna Paramahamsa's residence during his illness in 1885. Notable visitors included Girish Chandra Ghosh. Mahendralal Sarkar and others. Nati Binodini visited dressed as an European gentleman. The house, acquired by Ramakrishna Math in 2010, now serves as a museum. Mayer Bari on Udbodhan Lane, where Sarada Devi lived from 1909 to 1920, is a significant spiritual site.
The area features historic religious structures, including the century old Ghomta Kali Bari and the Niamatullah Ghat Mosque from 1794. According to
researcher Sabir Ahamed, the mosque's location between two Hindu temples symbolises communal harmony.
"Shyambazar and its adjacent areas were hubs of nationalist policies. Nandalal and Pashupati Bose's house-Basu Bati-held anti-British meetings and rallies. A rally was led by Rabindranath Tagore from Federation Hall to Basu Bati in Oct 1906. Tagore initiated the 'raksha bandhan utsav' in the courtyard of this house," said Swarnali Chattopadhyay, heritage activist. The area is associated with revolutionaries like Aurobindo Ghosh, arrested in 1908, and Dinesh Chandra Majumdar's 1933 police confrontation near Mohun Bagan Lane.
Living by the river
The riverside ghats remain vital community spaces. Mita Ghosh, 68, describes Bagbazar ghat as her sanctuary since age 18. "Priests perform rituals, young boys take a dip in the river, and people just indulge in adda," she said. Despite deteriorating infrastructure, these ghats continue to serve various community functions. Nearby Kumartuli maintains its traditional idol-making craft while adapting to modern demands.
"Shyambazar-Bagbazar is one the oldest neighbourhoods and still evokes an old-world charm. One of the salient features of the area now is coexistence of the traditional and modern - apartments share space with old houses and mansions; old food joints exist with modern-day cafes and restaurants and even in transportation, we have metro, bus routes and the ferry service," said Barun Kumar Ganguly, businessman.
Eating good
The area's culinary scene combines traditional establishments like Golbari and Mitra Cafe with contemporary outlets. Historic eateries like Adi Haridas
Modak maintain their legacy while adapting to changing times.
Street-side shopping
Hatibagan maintains its character as an affordable shopping destination while incorporating modern retail elements. As Sangeeta Ghosh, a local shopkeeper, notes, traditional businesses are adapting to digital payment methods while preserving their essential character. The Sunday morning pet bazar at Galiff Street near Shyambazar adds a uniqueness to the neighbourhood.
WHO IS THE 'SHYAM' IN SHYAMBAZAR ?
According to Evan Cotton's 'Calcutta Old and New', the origin of Shyambazar dates back to pre-Battle of Plassey (before mid-18th century)
Several Bengali traders set up businesses in Kolkata during this period. A Bengali trader, Shobharam Basak, worshipped Shyam Rai or Shyamchand as his family deity
Named the area Shyambazar after the deity, Basak owned the Shyambazar market
John Zephaniah Holwell, who was an employee of the East India Company, documented the existence of a large market called Charles Bazaar
The Basak family renamed Charles Bazaar after their family deity, Shyam Ral
Another theory suggests that the area belonged to distinguished resident Shyamacharan Mukhopadiyay. The name Shyambazar featured in the first
official map of Kolkata made in 1784 by Lt Col Mark Wood supports the fact
VIVEK PARA
Vivek Para, nestled in the heart of N Kolkata, carries a soul that resonates with history, culture, and the warmth of everyday life
Indrani Bhattacharya | GOVT EMPLOYEE
THAKUR PARA
Kumartuli is an all-time festival zone. We always have fun in the neighbourhood
Subhadeep Dutta | CARDIAC TECHNOLOGIST
FESTIVAL PARA
All kinds of festivals are celebrated here. We are very glad to stay here
Suman Saha | COORDINATCR
ELECTROCIAGNOSTIC CENTRE
MAYER PARA
Presence of Holy Mother Sri Sarada Devi's bathing ghat and divine Durga Puja of Bagbazar
Himadri Sekher Das | GOVT EMPLOYEE
NIVEDITA AVENUE
Sister Nivedita played a very important role in the upliftment of the underprivileged in the area
Biraj Sen | PVT CONSULTANT
SABUJ BIPLAB PARA
This para not only means greenery, Ganga and various birds, it also represents historical places such as the house of Girish Ghosh
Abhishek Munshi | IT PROFESSIONAL
